Oysters have always had a romantic reputation. Paired with champagne or a crisp white wine like Muscadet, it’s easy to understand their salty-sweet appeal.     Whether ‘‘au naturel’’ or topped with a crisp, smoky pancetta and brie, they evoke a certain passion — for food, if not more.
    Sean Doucet, executive chef of the Delta Hotels in Halifax, offers these suggestions for oysters as appetizers.

Oysters With Crispy Pancetta and White Bean Stew
12 medium Nova Scotia oysters
115 g (4 oz) white beans
60 g (2 oz) hardwood smoking chips
2 tomatoes
10 ml (2 tsp) extra-virgin olive oil
Salt and freshly ground pepper
2 shallots, chopped
2 cloves garlic, crushed
1 l (4 cups) fish stock
115 g (4 oz) pancetta
2 ml (1/2 tsp) chopped fresh thyme, plus extra for garnish
    Place beans in a bowl, cover with cold water and soak overnight. Drain and rinse.
    Preheat oven to 230 C (450 F).
    Place smoking chips in oven for 10 minutes until they start to smoulder.
    Meanwhile, cut tomatoes into 6 pieces, gently toss in 5 ml (1 tsp) of the olive oil and season to taste with salt and pepper. Place tomatoes in oven for 2 to 3 minutes until they soften and take on some of the smokiness from smouldering chips. Set aside until cool enough to handle, then cut into dice.
    In a large saucepan, heat remaining olive oil. Saute shallots and garlic. Add beans and fish stock, bring to a boil and simmer for 1 hour or until beans are tender. Then add thyme, diced smoked tomatoes and salt and pepper to taste.
    Meanwhile, slice pancetta and place in oven until crispy, 5 to 7 minutes.
    Wash oysters under cool running water and scrub shells with a soft brush. Place oysters in oven for 3 to 4 minutes or until shells crack open slightly. Remove and set aside to cool. Shuck oysters, discarding top shells, and loosen oyster off of bottom shells.
    Place oysters in oven for 2 minutes. Remove and top each with 5 ml (1 tsp) of the stew and 1 piece of pancetta.
    Garnish with a sprinkle of fresh thyme and serve.
Makes 12 oysters.
Notes:
    You can use navy or northern white beans.
    You can place the smoking chips directly on an outdoor grill and let them burn a little, then place the tomatoes on the grill for 2 to 3 minutes.
    You may substitute liquid smoke for the smoking process.
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Melt-In-Your-Mouth Oysters
3 shallots
5 ml (1 tsp) extra-virgin olive oil
Salt and freshly ground pepper
12 medium Nova Scotia oysters
12 squares (each 2 cm/3/4 inch) double-smoked or Montreal bacon
12 squares (each 2 cm/3/4 inch) double-cream brie
Snipped chives and lemon wedges, for garnish (optional)
    Peel shallots and toss with olive oil and salt and pepper to taste. Place in a 180 C (350 F) oven for 20 minutes or until golden brown. Remove from oven and let cool.
    Wash oysters under cool running water and scrub shells with a soft brush. Place oysters in oven for 3 to 4 minutes or until shells crack open slightly. Remove and set aside to cool.
    Place bacon on a baking sheet or in a frying pan with a heatproof handle and bake until it starts to become crispy. Remove from oven and set aside.
    Chop shallots and set aside.
    Shuck oysters, discarding top shells, and loosen oyster off of bottom shells.
    Place a small amount of shallots on top of each oyster, cover with 1 piece of cheese and top with 1 piece of bacon. Heat in oven for 3 to 4 minutes or until cheese is melted and oyster is hot.
    Garnish with fresh chives or a small piece of lemon, if desired.
Makes 12 oysters.
    Note: Medium oysters are the best for this recipe, but you can use large or small ones.