MIAMI Before there were Food Network icons and cultish produce, before farm-to-table was a philosophy and cake decorating became a competitive sport, there was Emeril Lagasse.
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Until I went off to college and became a vegetarian out of financial necessity, beans really weren’t a part of my life.
Most of the foods we eat even among those of us for whom eating is a career pass our lips and leave not even a fleeting memory. Most foods.
But then there are those that linger not just on our tongues, but in our minds. Perhaps by association of a time or place or person, or simply by the power of their own deliciousness. Somehow these foods take on another life for us.
Sometimes restaurant meals really stun you. You experience a dish so amazing you find yourself saying, “Oh, I could never make that at home.” But then you pause for a moment and think, “Or could I?”
MIAMI ‚Before there were Food Network icons and cultish produce, before farm-to-table was a philosophy and cake decorating became a competitive sport, there was Emeril Lagasse.
When a friend asked me if I could create a hearty fall soup that begins on the grill, at first I was stumped.
In the farm-to-table food world of today, we often praise the cook who keeps recipes simple, letting the ingredients speak for themselves. Yet once I get started in the kitchen, sometimes I can’t help but add in a final touch, an extra this or that (or two or three) that will make the whole recipe really sing.
Jasper White, one of my favourite Boston-area chefs and an old friend, likes to tell a story about the time Julia Child insisted he make common crackers (the hard round crackers served with chowder in New England) from scratch.
Ready to get retro with your baked goodies? How about a batch of do-it-yourself toaster pastries?
I’ve long admired black sesame seeds for the touch of mystery and glamor they add to everything from seared tuna to burger buns. But these days, I’m craving these tiny shards of onyx for their intense nuttiness and subtle sweetness.